Iwakuni Foodie

Every year on December 31st, the Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima hosts a Fire Prevention Festival (Chinkasai). This festival dates back to the days when houses were built of wood and they were built very close together. There was always a huge concern of fire among the residents. On the day of the festival, people can purchase little torches they can take home and hang in their home to prevent fires in the home. Most people hang it in their kitchen since that is where fire is usually handled. 

I had been to this festival once before and I really enjoyed it so I decided to go back. 

This time I was able to go a little early, which turned out to be a great thing because I was able to catch this –

I followed this group for a little while as they went from business to business, carrying this large pine torch. They would stop in front of each business and chant while standing the torch up.

We also caught this ceremony for the Chinkasai taking place inside of the Itsukushima Shrine.

The Chinkasai is held on the corner area where most people stop to see and take photos of the large Miyajima Torii. A little bit before 5pm, they started roping off certain sections. It was separated into two sections and we were told that we needed to go to the end of either section and get in line. At 5:30pm they would open it up so that people could come into the roped area to view the festival. Luckily, there were only about six people in front of us so when they opened it up we were able to get a good spot.

Now, we just had wait for the teams to carry their torches in and for the torch lit with the eternal flame to arrive so the ceremony could begin. The first time I went, I was told that someone takes a small torch up to the eternal flame on Mt. Misen to light it. They then bring that torch down and that is what they use to light the bonfire that will then light the large pine torches. 

I’m not going to lie. It was really cold and my toes were frozen. It was also quite crowded so there wasn’t a whole lot of room to keep moving around and standing in place wasn’t helping my frozen toes at all. However, I kind of forgot about my toes once the teams started coming in with their torches. 

Then the torch to light the fire arrived.

Once all of the large torches were lit, the teams were ready to go. 

There were 5 or 6 teams and each one walked up and down the dirt path that goes from the entrance to the Itsukushima shrine to where the large stone torii gate is at the end of the covered shopping street. As they walk, there is one person who blows a whistle twice while everyone carrying the torch says “yoi, yoi”

When they walked by with the torch, I could feel the heat from the fire and it felt SO good. They paused a couple of times in front of me and I didn’t want them to move. 

There was even this super cute team of little children carrying their little torch.

After walking up and down the whole area, they would take turns stopping in the middle so that they could run around in a circle with the lit torch on their shoulders.

Once the teams had all walked by a few times and they had run around with the torches, they started heading for the stairs leading down to the large torii gate. 

Since the tide was out, they were able to take their torches out to the torii.

Some of the teams even stopped to pose with their torch so people could take pictures. 
I wasn’t quick enough, but I managed to get one while they had the torch standing up. 

After they were finished, they went back up the steps to extinguish the flame on their torch. The festival was officially over. 

As we walked back to the ferry, we saw a couple of the teams stop in front of the business they were representing so they could get a group photo. 

The Chinkasai Festival on Miyajima is definitely a different way to spend New Year’s Eve. It won’t ruin any party plans either since it starts at 6pm and then ends before 8pm. 

Taking the train both ways will cost less than $10 round trip for the train and the ferry (based on the exchange rate at the time). You can certainly drive and there are quite a few pay parking lots near the ferry terminal, but I was worried it might be busy due to the holiday so I just took the train. 

There’s also a wonderful place to get some hot coffee or tea called the Bluebird Cafe. It’s located right by the train station and on the 31st I got some tea on my way to the island, and then I got a coffee on my way back to the train station. I try to stop by whenever I go to Miyajima because I love their coffee and sweets. 

Address for the Itsukushima Shrine: 〒739-0588 Hiroshima Prefecture, Hatsukaichi, 宮島町1−1